OUPV / Six Pack Captains License Course
DECK GENERAL - Marlinspike Seamanship
Marlinspike Seamanship
Lines and Line Handling
Bitter End is the free end of a line that is worked with.
Standing Part is the long unused or belayed end of a line, including the end that is not worked with.
Belay is to secure a line to a cleat.
Whipping prevents the end of a line from unraveling.
A Bow Lineleads from the bow, forward.
A Stern Line leads from the stern, aft.
Spring Lines are 45 degrees to the keel. They stop forward and aft movement.
Breast Lines are 90 degrees to the keel. They stop lateral movement.
A Cleat is a T-shaped fitting used to secure lines.
A Chock is a metal fitting that guides a line.
Bitts are perpendicular posts for belaying, fastening, working, and securing lines. Bitts are usually found in pairs.
A Bollard is a post located on a dock or wharf used for mooring vessels.
A Sampson Post is a vertical post on the forward deck of a vessel used as a bow cleat or bitt.
The best method of securing to a cleat is one round turn and then a figure 8. The best method of securing to a post, piling or spar is a clove hitch or bowline, which undoes easily.
When two lines with eye splices are utilizing the same piling, dipping the eye is the proper placement of the line for easy removal. The second line is pulled up through the eye of the line secured on the bollard. It is then placed over the bollard.
Types of Line
Nylon – synthetic and resists rot, but it is vulnerable to UV radiation. It acts as a shock absorber when anchoring. Used in towing astern but not for hip towing as it stretches.
Dacron – synthetic and resists rot, but is vulnerable to UV radiation. This line stretches the least and is a good line for halyards.
Polypropylene – synthetic and resists rot, but is vulnerable to UV radiation. This line floats. Examples are ski ropes and lobster trap line.
Manila – natural and vulnerable to rot. This line also shrinks when wet. Always rinse with fresh water, dry and store. Don’t lubricate this line.
Line is measured by diameter up to 1”. After that, circumference is used. Nylon line is unreeled off a spool, while manila is placed down and the bitter end is uncoiled from the inside out. Never stand in any position exposing you to the dangers of snap back if the line parts. Do not stand in the bight of a line of directly in line with its direction of pull. A periodic inspection of all lines should be made, paying special attention to aging, fiber wear or damage, chafing, kinks, and overloading. Keep lines free from grit or dirt. Gritty material can act as an abrasive, damaging the fibers. Keep deck fittings clean and smooth to reduce line abrasion. Do not let water freeze on lines. Don’t walk on lines or crush or pinch line in any way. Soaking stiff line in fabric softener is a great
way to soften the line.
Use chafing gear to protect lines from wear. Chafing gear is made up of old hoses or similar material. It is used to protect short pieces of line where they go through chocks or run over rails.
To secure a line to a bitt, make a complete turn around the near horn. Make several figure eights around both horns, and then finish off with a round turn.
To secure a line to a Sampson post, make a complete turn around the base of the post and form several figure eights around the horns.
To secure to a standard cleat, make a complete turn around the cleat. Lead the line over the top of the cleat and around the horn to form a figure eight. Several more figure eights can be completed. See following demo.
To secure a line to a mooring cleat, feed the eye of the line through the opening and loop the line back over both horns. Pull the line taught.
Wire rope may be used for cargo handling, fishing, towing and anchoring. Wires are twisted into strands, which then form the rope. The number of wires in each strand determines the rope’s flexibility.
Knots and Splicing
The weakest point of a line is the knot or splice. They can reduce the breaking strength of a line as much as 50-60 percent. Knots are used for temporary joining of lines, while splices provide a permanent joining. A knot used to secure lines together is a bend, while a knot used to secure a line to an object is a hitch.
Bowline is the most useful of all knots aboard a boat and can function as a temporary eye. Once learned it is easy to make, never slips or jams, and can always be untied. Two bowlines, one on each line, are an excellent combination when you need to tie two lines together.
Figure-eight knot is a stopper knot and unties easily.
Square Knot or Reefing Knot is used to tie two lines together that are the same diameter.
Clove Hitch is used to tie a line to a piling. It does tend to slip, so it is best to take an extra half-hitch to make it secure.
Two half hitches are an easy quick tie to a rail. It can also secure a clove hitch.
Sheet Bend or Becket Bend is used to tie lines of different diameters. This is the best knot for attaching a line to an eye splice and can be easily taken apart even after being under a load.
Anchor Bend is used to fasten anchor line to a ring.
Monkey Fist is great for heaving. Heave is to come alongside, while avast means to stop.
All splices weaken a line as shown below:
Splices make a more permanent joining of lines or two parts of a line. It is done by unlaying the strands of the lines to be spliced and then putting the strands back together with the other strands. A short splice is thicker and stronger than a knot, but would not pass easily through a block and tackle. A long splice is tapered and will pass through block and tackle, but it is weaker than a short splice.
Back splice is used to finish off the end of a line.
An Eyesplice makes a permanent loop in the end of a line.
Whipping protects the line and the crew’s hands and prevents unraveling. A Fid is a wooden spike used on fiber line for splicing. A Marlinspike is a metal spike used on wire or fiber.
Practical Exercise: Practice each knot and splice until you feel comfortable tying them. If you have difficulty with any one in particular, watch videos on that knot or splice.
Anchoring and Towing
Know the proper anchor for the situation. Use enough chain. Use proper scope of 5-7 to 1 under normal conditions, 10 to 1 in rough conditions. If you break loose, pay out more scope. If the anchor becomes fouled, circle the anchor or dive it up. Rode is all the ground tackle from the bow to the anchor. Always secure the bitter end of the anchor line. To anchor, make slight sternway and ease the anchor overboard. Take one turn around the cleat or Sampson post to protect hands, and then set the anchor. Note course to open water in case the anchor breaks free. Watch for chafing. Factor in the tide when anchoring. Approach a mooring ball against the current and wind. You can use a stern anchor or bimini anchor in a current. Kedging an anchor is to use your anchor to pull your vessel. This technique is useful in shallow water to prevent grounding. To pull an anchor, ease up directly over the anchor to break it free, being careful to protect your hands.
Rafting up to an anchored vessel requires practice and should only be done when there is little wind and a relatively smooth surface. Use fenders. When the unanchored vessel is about 6-10 feet from the anchored vessel the bow and stern lines should be passed.
When towing astern the towing bit should be forward of the rudder for better steering. A hip tow should also extend aft of the barge for better steering. In Step tow is when the tug and barge reach the crest and trough of the wave at the same time, and is the proper method of towing. Catenary is when the hawser is curved and dips into the water. Assisted towing requires licensing for hire, but any vessel can assist another vessel in need of help for free.
Trailering a Vessel
Make sure your trailer and vehicle can handle your vessel. Exercise caution when launching and recovering your boat. Make sure the lights are operational and the buddy bearings are lubed. Use proper ball and hitch as well as securing safety chains.
Leaks
You should have a plan in case you hit a submerged object causing hull damage. Be able to improvise and have working mechanical and manual pumps readily accessible. You should have a flashlight handy to look for leaks. Pine plugs should be kept by all thru-hull fittings and double clamp all hoses. Be sure to have a diagram of all vessel fittings. Have extra packing gland material on hand. If you find a water leak, tasting the water can determine whether it is salt or fresh. The temperature may also help determine the source.
